Landing at Daoblim Airport it feels like
India again (compared to the cosmopolitan feel of Bangalore) hustle, bustle,
hot, humid and noisy.
Seated in (overpriced) pre book taxi I am
grateful for air conditioning (who knew this would feel like indulgence to me
for my travel stories!) and I sit back and hope that my driver can drive
without too many close shaves, by now an old pro at coping with the mad cap
driving habits of the Indian, I can just relax (enjoy even?) and watch the
world go by outside.
Roadside vendors, men on mopeds, cattle and
other animals all vying for time and space, the first hour is pretty grim with deprived
looking towns and villages, dust and smog, but then the roadside buildings
start to give way to lush green vegetation, a blood orange setting sun, and a
sense of calm.
It’s dark by the time we arrive in Patnem
and I am glad a pre-booked my bungalow, the ‘road’ ends at a row of motorbikes
and I’m told I must walk down the beach to my huts ‘Namaste’…oh no! With a lot
of luggage it’s a testing 200 metres until I arrive sweaty and swearing at the
huts and get shown to my hut, way back in the depths of the tropical garden,
it’s named Krishna, so hopefully this is a sign that it will be ok.
Basic but clean, with a hideous bathroom,
I’m too tired to care, there is a mosquito net, a large double bed with clean
sheets, so it is ‘fit for purpose’
Next morning, after my normal Mysore
bedtime of 8.30pm, I’m up with the birds and ready to have a beach stroll and
take in the surroundings…. there is something so wonderful about dawn, it used
to be the time I was getting in feeling dazed and confused from a club or party,
but now I love it for the time to feel alive and appreciate the world. A cooler
temperature (around 24c) makes for a wonderful walk along the shore, my first
toe dip into the Arabian sea, and a chance to view all the hut ‘resorts’ along
the beach, also to check out the yoga shalas that are visible from the beach
and, most importantly, hunt down the ‘Patnem Chai Shop’ that I had researched –
7rps chai – this is more like it!!! -
Goa is super cheap for Western visitors, but much more expensive than Mysore.
After breakfast at my huts own restaurant I
settle into the day on the beach, a sun lounger with shade and a nice swim the
warm, but clean, sea.
As a beach lover it’s easy for me to while
away hours and hours, reading, relaxing a people watching, exactly what I came
here for!
There is a gentle breeze to help keep you
cool in the scorching 36c that it climbs to that day. And I also manage to keep cool with my first
alcoholic beverage of 35 days – an ice-cold kingfisher beer – boy did that
taste divine ;)
After a sweltering walk I find a nice restaurant
for lunch, April 20, where I have a delicious Dal Makhani, served in a small
silver bucket, and a lime soda, and sit enjoying the breeze. It’s towards the
north end of the beach which I have already decided is nicer and more chilled
that the centre and southern parts.
Next day, I get up and practice in my room,
shower and head up to my next resort, La La Land, where I excitedly wait the
arrival of none other than Ms.Lynsey MacDonald, one of my closest and dearest
friends.
By 8.40am she is here, and the ‘holiday’
begins!!
The following week is spent in beach
bungalow luxury, as our resort is brand new, and beautifully landscaped into
the hill at Colomb Bay, a picturesque little fishing bay nestled between Patnem
and her big sister, Palolem.
We settle into our daily routine of morning
yoga, breakfast; sun lounging (favorite lounge spot the uber friendly Salida
del Sol) sunset watching, evening snacking and early night to repeat again the
next day.
I won’t bore you with the details, but
highlights were the day we spent on Galibag Beach (Turtle Beach) a real
deserted spot (save for a few locals) and the most wonderful Oysters (90p – yes
pence – for 7) and the freshest barbequed prawns from a little beach shack
called Surya’s, who also provides hammocks for you to have your food coma in.
The beach is wild and waves quite big, and the
Talpona River, a lush
backwater river, backs it. If you do find yourself in South Goa, this
beach is a must.
Patnem (north end) was my favourite place
to chill, although Palolem wins on looks, she sweeps in a perfect arc of palm
trees, but to me it felt a bit too developed and packed in, and one too many
‘you come see my shop’ hassle’s.
We were, however treated to the shortest
show on earth, see Lynsey’s video for this joy – Palolem’s Got Talent??
Other highlights included the beautifully
breezy ‘Boom Shanker’ for breakfast, and then again later for sunset cocktails
(happy hour cocktails are just £1.50)
The smiley happy Nepalese boys at Salida
del Sol (most of the service staff in Patnem have come down from
Himalayas/Nepal) and the beautiful Vinyasa class with Koko, at the stunning
shala in La La Land.
By the end of the week, despite a small
bout of the infamous Delhi belly, both Lynsey and I felt relaxed and ready to
take on the next chapters in our lives.
Saying goodbye to Lynsey at the airport was
sad for me, as it was like saying goodbye to home again. But now the next
chapter of the saga begins…. and I can’t wait to tell you all about it!
No comments:
Post a Comment