Goa - a lounger's guide

Landing at Daoblim Airport it feels like India again (compared to the cosmopolitan feel of Bangalore) hustle, bustle, hot, humid and noisy.

Seated in (overpriced) pre book taxi I am grateful for air conditioning (who knew this would feel like indulgence to me for my travel stories!) and I sit back and hope that my driver can drive without too many close shaves, by now an old pro at coping with the mad cap driving habits of the Indian, I can just relax (enjoy even?) and watch the world go by outside.

Roadside vendors, men on mopeds, cattle and other animals all vying for time and space, the first hour is pretty grim with deprived looking towns and villages, dust and smog, but then the roadside buildings start to give way to lush green vegetation, a blood orange setting sun, and a sense of calm.

It’s dark by the time we arrive in Patnem and I am glad a pre-booked my bungalow, the ‘road’ ends at a row of motorbikes and I’m told I must walk down the beach to my huts ‘Namaste’…oh no! With a lot of luggage it’s a testing 200 metres until I arrive sweaty and swearing at the huts and get shown to my hut, way back in the depths of the tropical garden, it’s named Krishna, so hopefully this is a sign that it will be ok.

Basic but clean, with a hideous bathroom, I’m too tired to care, there is a mosquito net, a large double bed with clean sheets, so it is ‘fit for purpose’

Next morning, after my normal Mysore bedtime of 8.30pm, I’m up with the birds and ready to have a beach stroll and take in the surroundings…. there is something so wonderful about dawn, it used to be the time I was getting in feeling dazed and confused from a club or party, but now I love it for the time to feel alive and appreciate the world. A cooler temperature (around 24c) makes for a wonderful walk along the shore, my first toe dip into the Arabian sea, and a chance to view all the hut ‘resorts’ along the beach, also to check out the yoga shalas that are visible from the beach and, most importantly, hunt down the ‘Patnem Chai Shop’ that I had researched – 7rps chai – this is more like it!!!  - Goa is super cheap for Western visitors, but much more expensive than Mysore.

After breakfast at my huts own restaurant I settle into the day on the beach, a sun lounger with shade and a nice swim the warm, but clean, sea.

As a beach lover it’s easy for me to while away hours and hours, reading, relaxing a people watching, exactly what I came here for!

There is a gentle breeze to help keep you cool in the scorching 36c that it climbs to that day.  And I also manage to keep cool with my first alcoholic beverage of 35 days – an ice-cold kingfisher beer – boy did that taste divine ;)

After a sweltering walk I find a nice restaurant for lunch, April 20, where I have a delicious Dal Makhani, served in a small silver bucket, and a lime soda, and sit enjoying the breeze. It’s towards the north end of the beach which I have already decided is nicer and more chilled that the centre and southern parts.

Next day, I get up and practice in my room, shower and head up to my next resort, La La Land, where I excitedly wait the arrival of none other than Ms.Lynsey MacDonald, one of my closest and dearest friends.

By 8.40am she is here, and the ‘holiday’ begins!!

The following week is spent in beach bungalow luxury, as our resort is brand new, and beautifully landscaped into the hill at Colomb Bay, a picturesque little fishing bay nestled between Patnem and her big sister, Palolem.

We settle into our daily routine of morning yoga, breakfast; sun lounging (favorite lounge spot the uber friendly Salida del Sol) sunset watching, evening snacking and early night to repeat again the next day.

I won’t bore you with the details, but highlights were the day we spent on Galibag Beach (Turtle Beach) a real deserted spot (save for a few locals) and the most wonderful Oysters (90p – yes pence – for 7) and the freshest barbequed prawns from a little beach shack called Surya’s, who also provides hammocks for you to have your food coma in.

The beach is wild and waves quite big, and the Talpona River, a lush backwater river, backs it. If you do find yourself in South Goa, this beach is a must.

Patnem (north end) was my favourite place to chill, although Palolem wins on looks, she sweeps in a perfect arc of palm trees, but to me it felt a bit too developed and packed in, and one too many ‘you come see my shop’ hassle’s.

We were, however treated to the shortest show on earth, see Lynsey’s video for this joy – Palolem’s Got Talent??

Other highlights included the beautifully breezy ‘Boom Shanker’ for breakfast, and then again later for sunset cocktails (happy hour cocktails are just £1.50)

The smiley happy Nepalese boys at Salida del Sol (most of the service staff in Patnem have come down from Himalayas/Nepal) and the beautiful Vinyasa class with Koko, at the stunning shala in La La Land.

By the end of the week, despite a small bout of the infamous Delhi belly, both Lynsey and I felt relaxed and ready to take on the next chapters in our lives.

Saying goodbye to Lynsey at the airport was sad for me, as it was like saying goodbye to home again. But now the next chapter of the saga begins…. and I can’t wait to tell you all about it!

Food - GLORIOUS Food

A summary of food choices and delights in India - I'm basing this in Mysore/Karnataka as Goa has world cuisine and an abundance of seafood on offer.

Dosa’s

Masala Dosa the breakfast of India, a light pancake made from rice and lentil flour, filled with a potato and onion mix and served with a coconut and sometimes-spicy red salsa.

Much talk of the ‘best’ and ‘secret’ dosas can be had amongst the Ashtangi’s in Mysore, and many favour the ones from Mylari, I however and not a big fan of pancakes, especially thick ‘American’ style ones so this was not my favourite venue, my favourite was the ‘secret’ breakfast spot in Laksmipurum (so secret I cannot even tell you the name or location) and the ones served in either Shri Durga places.

Idly

Small flat mounds of black lentils and rice, tasteless apart from the sambars they are served with, are low in calories and plain enough for even the most sensitive of stomachs. In fact these are recommended to eat if you do suffer from the inevitable tender tummy in India

Thali

Thali is the name for a small selection of dishes served with rice, breads, chutney’s and even a sweet. They are the best value for money nutritious dish you can get and most places will keep replacing the rice and side dishes until you can no longer eat! Obviously we are practicing self-restraint so sometimes even one is too much. The side dishes usually include a vegetable palva, a dhal, curd, a sambar and a vegetable ‘curry’. South Indian ones with have quite liquidy dishes and North Indian tends to be richer and creamier. You have lots of rice and normally a roti, chapatti and poppadum to scoop the liquids on or in to. Most notable of the Thali’s I had was the North Indian Thali in Sixth Main and the Organic Thali in Dhatu’s but I honestly never had a bad one.

Home cooked Thali

(See cookery class post)

The best food I had in India was definitely from one of the houses that open their doors to us westerners to sample the home cooked Thali. Normally including the same kind of dishes and sides as the restaurant ones but much fresher and tastier and with salads of beetroot, cabbage and carrots making it an even healthier option.

To choose one over the other would be unfair, as they all offer stunning food and welcoming, sociable atmosphere’s to eat them in. Anu’s, Manjula’s, Sanjit’s you can find them all over Gokulum and Laksmipurum so it’s up to you to go hunt them down and enjoy!

Dhal after Dhal after Dhal

If I had to choose one dish to eat for the rest of my life I think Dhal would be in the top 3! I just love the creamy goodness of lentils and spices marinated together, and with the added bonus of being low calorie, its just sublime.

Dhal Fry, Chana Dhal, Dhal Makhani, just keep ‘em coming. With rice or roti, or chapatti, or all three or alone I don’t mind. I just LOVE dhal.

Western ‘Yogi’ Food

There are plenty of cafes frequented by the Yogi’s of Mysore for healthy yogi friendly breakfasts and brunches. Especially popular after conference they serve scrumptious smoothies for your post practice protein hit, omelette’s for another protein hit loved by the non vegans, pretty fruit salads, and if you have a sweet tooth plenty of crepes too!

My favourite place for this was Anokhi Garden, owned by the gorgeous Marie Lovato, and staffed by the happy crew of yogis and locals in the kitchen.

There is nothing on this menu I don’t like, but highlights have to be Flora’s fruit salad and the fancy porridge.

Coconuts

Not really a food, but has to have a mention, the coconut guys stand outside the shala’s expertly cutting the tops off the fresh coconut so that you can rehydrate after class, or at any time of the day.

You can ask for them to be opened so that you can also eat the silky flesh inside for even more nutrition.

At 20p a pop it’s the cheapest way to stay hydrated in this stifling heat.

Chai

Whether masala or plain, the milky tea that is India’s number 1 drink is my new addiction (well I did give up alcohol and coffee!)

A small ‘shot’ glass will cost you around 10 rps

Not to be confused with the never to be drunk again Chai Lattes we have in the UK.

Best ones for Masala made by the wonderful Shanta at the KinoTim house.

Best plain from Amruth.

I would say after yoga, food is the next best bit about Mysore – and India and as those of you who know me, and my Instagram account, one of my most favourite subjects!

Bon Appetite!

Ekam Inhale - last week of practice

So I have reached the end of the month's practice with Saraswathi at KPJAYI.....

I don't think I can put into words the feeling of achievement I have from completing the month, which has been at times frustrating, annoying, jubilous and rewarding.
If I were on a reality talent show I would definitely coin the phrase 'it's been a roller coaster of emotions' but I'm not, so I won't.

In the end it wasn't about completing the series or achieving certain asanas, it was about a development within me as a person and a yoga practitioner that I can now bring to the mats of the people I teach.

Ashtanga (Mysore) the Pattabi Jois lineage, the 'parampara' has an energy and spirituality of it's own that I don't think you can fully understand unless you come here to the birthplace.
I will never forget walking into the shala on the first morning to the sound of the ujayi breath like the ocean breaking onto the shores, sometimes as I walk through the shala after practice I look at the other practitioners and thought that it looks as beautifully choreographed as a ballet, yet as calm as  Buddha in meditation.

What have I learnt? Well, I would rather keep some of it to myself to be honest! What I can say is Ashtanga will reveal things about yourself you may have wanted to keep hidden. It will test you physically, mentally and spiritually. It will make you want to cry and make you jump for joy, all in the same practice. It will make you reassess how you live you life (and not just the yamas and niyamas) it will control what you eat, when you sleep and may well ruin your social life, unless your social life is with the other ashtangi's who understand that you have to leave the party at 8.30pm to go to bed.

I read a fab article, not all of which I agree with on Elephant Journal this morning - it's worth a click as this woman tells it warts and all.
Article - Ashtanga is the most hated yoga

I have been bitten by the Mysore bug....as well as by quite a few of the local bugs!
As I posted on Instagram earlier, Yoga saved my life by giving me a focus when I was going through a particularly tough time in my life, and now Ashtanga has changed it, and shaped the way forward for it.

So, night all, I'm off to bed for an early start tomorrow to go to Goa!!! yay! holidays!

What do we do when we are not practicing?

I wondered this before I came, and in fact had read many blogs about what people get up to in their 'sapre' time.

what I can confirm is basically eating (food post will be coming shortly), resting, reading, chatting, eating again, drinking chai, and what can best be described as 'lounging'

If you come in March you will also find that the only place off your mat you want to spend anytime on is at the pool!!! Boy is it hot in March! beware if you are planning to come, and splash out on a place with a/c - but also note that the power goes out frequently so even your luxury a/c pad might be a hot box in 20 mins of no power...

First at the pool = me being silly!

Yoga Squad Goals 

KesoTes lounging at Regalis 

My second favourite hangout after the pool is under my fan, in my room, with all the curtains closed and very little on.....'what a waste' I hear you cry, yes, I know I am in one of the most colourful, crazy, cultural places in the world...but you try 'sightseeing' here in March!

My favourite time of day runs between 6am-9am, so that is when I have been doing things like take a walk to the temple, visit a market, or take a stroll around the streets of Gokulam. Any time after that and all you can think about it air conditioned restaurants and rooms...and ice!
In fact, one of my house mates, after a week of sweaty, sleepless nights, booked herself into the Raddison Blu for the night just to spend a night in an a/c room - where she slept for 11 hours straight! Happy Holi to Jenna!

So, that is it, not forgetting we have chanting class three times a week, and conference with Sharath on Saturday mornings, and the obligatory Castor Oil baths, cookery classes, Sanskrit classes, many many other classes and lectures should you feel the need to expand the grey matter in all things of Indian and Yogic culture.

Believe me, you will never be bored, and your body will thank you for resting before the next assault in class each morning.

Holi - it's not just for Christmas

So this Wednesday was moon day (day off of practice) and also Holi - The Festival of Colours, or arrival of Spring.

Historically Holi was a festival to celebrate Holika, a woman who was sent to the pyre with her nephew, Prahlad, by Prahlad's father, an evil king (no shit!) Hiranyakashipu as he (Prahlad) was forbidden by his father (the evil king, remember?) to worship Vishnu.
Holika was believed to be immune to fire....so as they sat on the fire Prahlad prayed to Vishnu to keep him safe....Holika was burnt to death, and Prahlad survived without a scar.....

To celebrate Holika, on the first night of Holi bonfires are held, the next day is the famous paint smearing, mainly celebrated by the young people and children, and also mainly celebrated in North India, so we had to create our own bit of fun, on the roof of KesoTes....

Such fun! Completely ridiculous, and yet hilarious too!

Just when I had spent HOURS in the shower, scrubbing myself and then the bathroom, I walk home only to be 'attacked' by some friends - the people who work at the wonderful Anokhi Garden....so I also got a taste of real 'Holi' celebrations

Frustration, Elation, Acceptance

As the week 3 in Mysore draws to an end I sit and reflect on the week's practice and how it has left me feeling.

The start of the week the emotion was frustration, I seemed to move backwards even in postures that were familiar to me and that I have been doing for many years. Then on Monday Saraswathi 'gave' me bhujapidasana (even though I need help with the binding in Marichasana D) so I tried my best, but still fell back on my butt like a sack of spuds!!
The other frustration was not being able to bring my right leg into half lotus at all due to the screaming pain on the outside of the knee (which Dr.Google and numerous anatomical chats with fellow yogi's leads me to believe I have strained my LCL, lateral collateral ligament) so I am doing my own modifications for all postures that involve the half lotus.

Then, on Tuesday (which also happened to be my birthday) I felt clunky and unelegant and was feeling low. Despite this I did my best attempt at bhujapidasana...held with feet just off the floor for 5 breaths and lowered head down...on coming up and taking my vinyasa after Saraswathi booms over from 2 mats left 'bhujapidasana you did???' I said 'yes', and she gave me a huge smile and said 'is coming' and I smiled back, I had to then hide my face as the ego took over and I felt such feelings of elation and pride I was ecstatic, and reader, I don't mind admitting, tearful!!!

Sharath demonstrating Bhujapidasana in the Astanga Yoga Anusthana

The latter part of the week I have been much more reflective and have come to an acceptance of what will be will be, the phrase 'practice and all is coming' is quite over used, but there is good reason for this, Ashtanga is not an easy practice and even though I can do some of the poses later in the series my body is saying, slow down, keep at it, and with faith and perseverance it will come.

Sharath talked a lot in conference this week of the other well used phrase of Guruji's, Yoga is 99% practice and 1% theory, this meaning not just asana but the first four limbs of yoga, practicing your yama, niyama, asana and pranayama.
Yes, read all about it, I'm still ploughing through the Hatha Yoga Pradipika, and have read Ashtanga Yoga Anusthana but the real yoga comes from DOING and understanding it through practice.
Practice, Practice, Practice.

Accepting where you are today is a humbling experience, in fact Ashtanga Yoga in Mysore is a humbling experience, yet one I am learning from and growing in each day.
Being thankful for what we have is not easy in the Western world, but is so easy to understand here in India.

Thank you to this wonderful woman who has scared the living daylights out of me, yet made me feel like the richest person alive, and helped me to accept where I am, and keep the ego at bay.

Looking like a giant next to the small but non the less terrifying Saraswathi 

Indian Cookery Class

Just had my first Indian cooking class with a wonderful lady called Shaila who has been teaching yogi's to cook for the last 12 years. Not only a lesson in cookery, but a lesson in feminism, and how Shaila has used cooking to gain financial independence from her husband. Almost had me in tears or yelling out 'go girl' at one point.

So, I won't bore you with the details, in fact I will keep them to myself so that I may stun my friends and family with my new found culinary skills. I always cook dhals and vegetable 'curries' at home, but I have learnt my methods from a mixture of the Maddha Jaffery Curry Bible and the Internet.
This was authentic, South Indian home cooking at it's best.

Enough text, pictorial evidence is what you need here! Bare in mind most Indian families work on a two ring gas stove and don't have an oven so there is no excuse for not cooking these dishes even on a camping stove!

Dhal Curry - 

The 'masala' tray for the dhal: 

****Extra tip from Shaila when talking about the many benefits of my favourite spice, Turmeric - make a face pack from yogurt (curd ideally) turmeric and gram flour for dewy skin! ****

Pumpkin Palya (Palya is a vegetable side dish) 

Brinjal (Aubergine) Potato Masala 

Masala for the 'curry' 

Beetroot Salad (can't get enough of this) 

BREADS

Possibly the most interesting part of the class, we learnt how to make the dough, roll and what the difference is between ROTI, CHAPATI and PARATHA (basically the rolling, folding and oil additions) 

Paratha

Vegetable Biryani (a dish for special occasions) 

And finally, the holy grail....Masala Chai (I've given up coffee and alcohol, but become dependant on chai!!) 

THE WHOLE LOT! 

For anyone coming to Mysore, I can't recommend this class enough, she has all kinds of classes so next week I will be going back to learn how to make everyone's favourite breakfast - DOSAS!!!!

Look up Shaila on facebook (Shaila Amarnath) - her house is on the corner of 1st and 9th Main, just past Doctors Corner.

namaste!